Seattle is ones of the fastest growing major cities in the US and for good reason. Surrounded by the Puget Sound, the city is rich in history, natural beauty, and industry. Its a major port city and a hub for a number of technology giants including Amazon, Microsoft, and Boeing. But in many ways, the city is experiencing some growing pains with rising cost of living and a massive homeless population.
Like it or not, the fresh innovation of New Seattle and the storied character of Old Seattle are connected. Sometimes they're fit together seamlessly and sometimes they're stitched together like Frankenstein's monster. Regardless, Seattle is a beautiful tangle of things: from farmers markets to the Space Needle to giant trolls and so much more.
The Market
Pike’s Place Public Market Center is one of the most famous markets in the US. The market opened in 1907 to give the people of Seattle better access to cheap produce and for many years the market thrived. Due the tensions of World War II, the market fell on hard times. Fewer people went to the market and many Japanese vendors were forced out of their homes and into internment camps. In the 1960s, the market was set to be demolished until the city came together and designated the area into as a historical district. Now the market is full of life: with rows of colorful flowers, fresh food, street performers, and art at every corner.
Walking through the market is a sensory experience. There are hoards of people, dozens of rows of aromatic flowers flowers, and today’s catch laid out and ready to be cooked. The seafood vendors have everything from salmon to crab to mussels and even octopus. The market is also abundant in fresh fruit. As I passed the vendors, I was offered samples of Mount Rainier cherries and sweet nectarine.
But the market isn’t just great because of its fresh fare, it’s also has some amazing music. Buskers are all over the market performing. I even so one guy performing with a full piano. Pikes Market can be an intimidating place to wander through, but there are a couple of locations you should see.
Points of Interest
Gum Wall: Sometimes in the 1990s someone stuck a piece of gum to the wall and the collection has been growing ever since. The gum wall spans an entire alley and it is now covered in thousands of colorful pieces. You could say it's a little gross, but there's also something cool about it. People from all walks of life and all over the world have left a their mark in this spot with a saliva-covered piece of gum.
Rachel the Piggy Bank: Up the street from the gum wall, is another icon of the market: a life-sized bronze piggy bank named Rachel. Legend has it if you donate money in the pig and rub its nose you’ll get good luck.
First Starbucks: In 1971, Starbucks opened back its very first store at 1st and Pike. Now they have over 28,000 stores internationally. But you can still get a cup of fresh coffee from the place where it all began.
Piroshky, Piroshky: Right next to the first Starbucks is a small store called Piroshky, Piroshky which offers a variety of the Russian pie. They offer savory meat piroshkies, vegetarian piroshkies, and sweet piroshkies and they are absolutely amazing. Some popular piroshkies are the salmon, potato and cheese, and cinnamon roll.
Giant Shoe Museum: Below the main level of the market is a small museum dedicated to big shoes. For 50 cents you can see a size 37 AA shoe which belonged to the world's tallest man Robert Wadlow who was 8 ft 11 inches.
Space Needle
By far, the most recognizable landmark in Seattle is the Space Needle. Built in 1962 as a part of the World’s Fair, the needle stands 602 feet tall. It’s kind of pricey to go up to the top but it’s still cool to the strange UFO shaped tower dwarfed against the cityscape.
Right next to the Space Needle, are two museums worth checking out; Museum of Pop Culture and the Pacific Science Center. As well, less than half a mile away stop by for Dutch babies (thick pancakes) at Tilikum Place Cafe or grab a drink and bar food at the 5 Point Cafe, a BS-free, 24-7 bar which claims to be the oldest family run restaurant in Seattle.
Fremont Troll
Located underneath an overpass is a creature you would expect out of a fairy-tale: a 18 foot tall concrete troll. Clutched in its hand is an actual VW Beetle which used to be a time capsule until people stole its content. The troll was built to prevent people from using the area as a dumping ground, but now it’s more likely to be climbed all over.
Pioneer Square and Underground Tour
Pioneer Square is the oldest neighborhood in Seattle and with it comes a hidden history… an underground history. I am not usually big on tours, but Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour was incredible informative and hilarious. The tour itself was about 75 minutes and it takes you beneath the city to learn about how it came to be.
The city was formally founded in the 1850s but several Native American tribes called the land home before that. In fact, the name Seattle comes from a Duwamish chief named Sealth.
For its beginning years the city’s big industries were mining, coal, lumber, and fishing. But in 1889, a massive fire leveled the city destroying hundreds of homes and businesses (which were built out of wood). Miraculously no one died in the fire and the very next day the city started to rebuild on top of the remains of these buildings. The underground tour takes you through these buried parts of Seattle educating you on its corrupt founders and how several “seamstresses” (prostitutes) helped save the city.
If you’re into history or just story-telling, the underground tour is a great experience. Afterward, I suggest roaming through Pioneer Square. There are some interesting businesses including a kilt store. This area is also home to some of Seattle’s oldest establishments including the oldest restaurant, bar, and saloon.
While Amazon has brought in a lot of revenue for the city, it's clear that there is some disdain for the company. One newly constructed building was graffitied with “Here comes another box” and on the side of one of the highway tunnels was a giant “F*** Bezos”.
Regardless Amazon is doing some innovative work such as its prototype Amazon Go Store. All you need is an app and you can walk into the store, grab some groceries, and leave without waiting in any lines or cash registers to check out.
Once you pick something up at the store, it automatically places the item in your “cart” and when you leave your purchases are just charged to your account. It's the sort of thing that makes you think about the ways technology shapes our everyday life. the store allows for a speedy grocery run, the design practically eliminates the need for employees. Whether that's a good thing or a bad thing, I'll leave that up to you to decide.
Conclusion
Seattle is al little rough around the edges: a trail mix city full of hipsters and techies, fishers and artists. It seems that the only thing the city can agree on is its love of coffee. The city has been through some stuff from massive fires to its current homeless population. Nevertheless, Seattle has carried on and so has that spirit. The city is gritty and quirky and vibrant, but still beautiful.